Shark Bay

Shark Bay is approximately 920km north of Perth no the West coast of Australia. I joined River Gods on the this 5 day trip (3 days paddling).

After the long and uneventful drive north, the group met up at the Monkey Mia resort for one last taste of civilisation.

Day 1 Monkey Mia to Cape Rose

Packing up at Monkey Mia

Having arrived safely at Cape Rose

After spending a couple of hours packing up the kayaks it became apparent that we weren't going to starve on this trip. Finally underway we immediately spotted a large turtle swimming just off of the beach.

During the morning we saw many rays of varying sizes and colours and several small reef sharks. After a leisurely lunch on the beach we paddled on for a couple more hours around Cape Rose until we found a good spot to camp. A deep beach was protected from the wind a bit by some sand dunes and low red cliffs. With the tents pitched we entertained ourselves with snorkeling and exploring the cliffs; home to several kangaroos and a wild goat.

At night fall we lit a campfire to cook on. A completely clear night, far from any settlement of any size, meant the stars were stunning. After roasting marsh mallows on the fire we explored the mudflat at low tide finding many ghost and hermit crabs. The ghost crabs were also attracted to the camp fire which they tried to run into. Once we had all gone to bed they picked the pots and pans clean, helping with the washing up for the next day but keeping those sleeping nearby awake with the gentle rattling of crab claws on metal.

Day 2 Cape Rose to Guichenault Point

Camping amongst the mangroves

A cooler, cloudy change in the weather today, which was no bad thing after being roasted by the sun the previous day. With a slight increase in speed we broke camp and packed the kayaks up again. A tail wind meant that we could raft the boats together and hoist the purpose made sail. The sail is a sheet of tarpaulin with pockets for paddle blades in the top corners. These paddles are hoisted as masts by the front outside paddlers in the raft. Sheets from the top of the sail go back to the rear outside paddlers to take the strain of the sail. In this way we soon crossed the excellently named Hopeless Reach.

With the raft broken up into its constituent kayaks we made out way into a sheltered lagoon, disturbing the resident turtle. Here we had lunch and climbed the cliffs to see where we had come from and all the distance we still had to do.

We were now amongst mangroves. After a short paddle around Guichenault Point we hauled the kayaks up onto a very small and unpromising beach. However the mangrove behind revealed an excellent campsite, with several tent sized clearings amongst the soft sand.

With the boats unloaded a few of us went to explore a tidal creek. As the crystal clear, green water rushed out beneath us we were treated to several large turtles making their way out to sea.

Day 3 Guichenault Point to Gregorys Bay

Kayaks and red cliffs

The final, sun drenched paddle

After a very windy night, where I was convinced the only thing stopping my tent blowing was the fact that I was in it, we prepared ourselves for the crossing of the deep waters of Herald Bay.

Although strong, the wind was behind us, so we rafted up again. The wind was so strong that we were physically not strong enough to hold the sail in place. Instead we hoisted our paddles in the air and this provided enough propulsion to move us at a descent speed.

After 2 hours of sailing like this we approached the Cape Peron. At this point Easterly waves started to meet the South-easterly waves we had been riding along. The resulting 2 metre of so seas on our aft quarter started trying to pull the raft apart. As the seas got bigger more ropes and eyelets snapped so that in the end most people were holding the kayaks together. One particularly large wave broke over the heads of the rear paddlers.

Just when we were at our most terrified we spotted a large dugong with her calf a short distance away. Our tribulations were forgotten briefly as we watched these rare and remarkable animals.

Eventually we were washed up on the more sheltered shoreline, where we broke up the raft, bailed out water and set off for Cape Peron. Around the headland waves were breaking, but nothing as big as we'd experienced. With a little skill it was possible to take advantage of these and surf down them.

We then got stuck on a beautiful beach under red cliffs with the wind preventing us from going back and the strong tidal current making the next paddle impossible. The tide doesn't run forever, so we chilled out for a couple of hours admiring the large resident cormorant population.

With both the wind and the current dropped we finished off the paddle under the strong sun to Gregorys Bay, our final camp. Here we scrounged 3 fish from some fishermen for a fitting feast.

In the morning 4WDs took us back to Monkey Mia via the only, very rough, dirt road on the peninsula. We stopped at Peron Station for a dip in the hot spring and then commenced the long drive back to Perth.

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