Coast to Coast²

This 5 day mainly offroad route crosses from the East coast of Scotland to the West along the Great Glen Way and then back across to the North Sea via the Grampian and Cairngorm mountains and finally the Speyside Way.

The start at end points are both accessable by train. We carried all our equipment in small rucksacks and stayed in bed and breakfasts.

Full photo gallery here.

Day 1 Inverness to Fort Augustus (74.7 km)

We got off to an inauspicious start; having taken the obligatory photos at the start of the Great Glen Way outside the Fort in Inverness, David noticed that his cassette was falling off. Some minor repairs later and we were making our way across the many footbridges over the River Ness.

Lynda starting the singletrack descent to Drum

Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness

A tough road climb took us away from Loch Ness. After a fast fire road section we were looking forward to the steep singletrack descent to Drumnadrochit. Disaster struck right at the top when my saddle snapped off. The bolt that clamps the saddle post to the seat post had sheared right through. There was no repairing it so I scooped all the bits up into my bag and continued the 5km into Drum standing up.

Our only hope of bodging a repair was the garage. However all the mechanics had disappeared for an extended lunch. To avoid wasting any more time and to get the saddle fixed properly I decided to lock my bike up and take the bus back to Inverness and find a bike shop.

Whilst I was away David and Lynda found some lunch and then made their way to Invermoriston along a very hot and hilly section.

My trip to Inverness was a success and within 2 hours I was back in Drumnadrochit on a fully functioning bike that best of all – I could sit on. By blasting along the road I caught up with the David and Lynda in Invermoriston where they were lounging in the sunshine eating ice creams.

With the team re-united again we completed the final 6 miles of fast fire road into Fort Augustus and to the chalet where we would be staying that night.

Day 2 Fort Augustus to Spean Bridge (71.6 km)

Today we would continue along the Great Glen Way to its finish at Fort William before starting the return to the East coast as far as Spean Bridge.

Looking back along Loch Oich

Ben Nevis from Loch Lochy

A short flat section of the Caledonian Canal took us to the swing bridge at Aberchalder. The bridge was just being opened to let a couple of boats through so we hung about a while.

The next stretch to Invergarry was a nice surprise. Some great singletrack culminated in a switch back descent back to the road.

From Invergarry to Laggan Swing Bridge the track climbed high enough to give some good views of Loch Oich. The track around Loch Lochy, that followed, was flat and wide. Here we saw a couple of others cycling the Great Glen, as well as many walkers. We agreed that cycling the Great Glen would be far superior to walking it due to the several uneventful sections, such as the one we were on. On a bike you can put your foot down and eat up some cheap miles. On foot they would be a real chore.

Towards the end of the loch we were treated to some fine views of Ben Nevis and then a road spin through a varied deciduous forest.

From Gairlochy all that remained of the Great Glen was 9km of the Caledonian Canal. However a brisk SE wind had blown up by now and we were made to work for every pedal stroke. This wasn’t so bad as we were comforted by the knowledge that after lunch we would be turning through virtually 180 degrees.

The traffic out of Fort William wasn’t much fun but we were soon on another of Wade’s military roads skirting the Witch’s Trails. Our wind assisted progress to Spean Bridge was only halted by 2 rather large Highland cows blocking the track.

After some excellent home cooking in the B&B we strolled up the hill to the commando memorial.

Day 3 Spean Bridge to Newtonmore (81.3 km)

The Spean valley

Along Loch Ericht to Dalwhinnie

The sun was already shining brightly as we made our way along the very pleasant south bank of the Spean. It was with a little consternation that we passed through a very untidy farmyard and down to where we hoped we could cross the river. Although the track seems to pass over the river on the map it isn’t clear if there is actually a bridge there. We were very pleased to find there is indeed a footbridge as the river passes through a very narrow, rocky gorge at that point. This also isn’t shown on the map.

After an easy spin along road we approached Laggan Dam, intending on crossing it and entering the forest on the other side of the loch. However an unfriendly man bolted the gate shut and told us in no uncertain terms that we weren’t able to access the dam. No worries, it just meant a couple more easy road miles before crossing the bridge at the other end of the reservoir.

Regular deer gates hampered our progress around Loch Laggan but we soon arrived at Ardverikie, aka Glen Bogle from BBC1’s popular Sunday evening drama Monarch of the Glen.

After a short climb up through the forest we picked up the River Pattack and made our way South to Loch Pattack and then Loch Ericht. This great section of wilderness cycling was tainted slightly by a couple of kilometres of land rover track that consisted of soft sand. Maybe in the wet or when it has bedded in a bit (ie washed away) it will be better but for us it was frustrating, exhausting progress. After lunch at the waterfalls the track improved and we were able to enjoy some stunning views.

A speedy blast along the good estate road from Ben Alder Lodge to Dalwhinnie was followed by a section of the exceptionally signposted National Cycle Route 7 to Newtonmore.

Day 4 Newtonmore to Granton on Spey (64.2 km)

Rothiemarcus Forest

Loch Morlich

After a gentle warm up on the road to Feshiebridge we entered the cross country ski trails. These lead onto some of the best natural singletrack in Scotland up to Loch Gamhna.

Skirting the southern shores of Loch an Eilein we crossed the Cairngorm Club Footbridge into the Rothiemarcus Forest and around Loch Morlich. Lunch was taken in the sunshine on the beach at the edge of the loch under the still snowy corries of Cairngorm.

The highest point of the trip followed when we crossed the Ryvoan Pass. The climb was ok and we enjoyed the fast rocky path down to the Forest Lodge and then into Nethy Bridge for another ice ream by the river.

At Nethy Bridge we joined the Speyside Way which would eventually take us all the way to Spey Bay. However the short section to Granton was frustrating as it passed through fields and numerous gates.

As this was the last night of our trip we celebrated by staying in a very grand converted manor house. David and Lynda’s balcony had stunning views of the Cairngorms and the bathroom attached to my room was bigger than my flat.

Day 5 Granton on Spey to Elgin (89.6 km)

The Speyside Way

Spey Bay from Ben Aigen

Although today was to be the longest of the trip, it was all gentle downhill to the coast. The section of the Speyside Way from Granton to Ballindalloch cannot sustain cycle traffic so we cruised along the adjacent very quiet B road. As far as Craigellachie the trail follows a very pleasant disused railway line. After Craigellachie we climbed onto the flanks of Ben Aigen which provided great views of the Spey valley.

A couple of short sharp road climbs before Fochabers helped digest lunch, but we were soon barrelling into Spey Bay where a large welcoming committee of dolphins frolicked in the bay.

All that remained was the spin into Elgin in to catch our train home.