Perth Hills, WA

This is a description of a 50km route, mainly on former railway lines, on the outskirts of Perth, Western Australia. The route winds through what are known locally as the Perth Hills, actually part of the Darling Range. Don’t let that put you off however; WA is a pretty flat place so the gradients are not severe. The route takes in some beautiful areas of Jarrah forest and untouched bushland, although you are never too far away from roads and houses. Particularly in the latter stages the scenery is pretty with some great views down to Perth and the coast on a clear day.

The route starts just outside Midland, an outer suburb of Perth. Climbing gradually through the forest to the pleasant town of Mundaring it reaches its highest point at Mt Helena before descending steadily back to Midland through the John Forrest National Park.

The route can be ridden at anytime of the year due to the Mediterranean climate. However, in summer (Nov – Feb) this should be undertaken with caution as the daytime temperatures can exceed 40°C. Another point to bear in mind is the infamous WA pea gravel. Through the spring and summer the trails gradually dry out and the surface becomes increasingly loose. This can lead to some interesting riding conditions with the odd spill not unknown.

The best way to access the route is by train. There are at least four services an hour on the TransPerth commuter line to Midland with the journey taking about 25 minutes. The fare is $6.20 return (£2.60) return and bikes are welcome on the train outside rush hour with none of the petty rules that make combining bike and rail such a chore in some countries.

From Midland station, literally head for the hills which are clearly visible rising to the East of town. A 2km ride on the road brings you to the start of the ride. The area is an industrial town with cattle road trains and other heavy trucks around at certain times so take care. The road trains can be up to 54m long with four trailers, an awesome sight but definitely something to give way to on a bike (or anything short of another road train really).

Once on the trail the trees quickly envelop you in a completely different environment as you cycle towards Darlington. The route rises steadily here, on a gradient that is not really steep but enough to make me think we were going wrong as most railway lines aren’t built with such grades. Persevere and the signs at each road junction will guide you. The route passes close to an area known as the Goat Farm, a 2km mountain bike loop with some fairly big drops and obstacles, before meeting a creek bed. The original bridge has been removed here so there is a very small technical climb out of the creek. This is the most technical part of the route and can easily be walked in a minute or two if you don’t feel up to it.

After crossing the highway at the entrance to a disused quarry the route arrives at the pleasant area of Darlington. There is a tea shop here and the original station platform is intact. Some sign boards provide information on the growth of the area based on logging industry which the railway was built to serve in the 1880’s. Now it is a pleasant sleepy place and quite a contrast to Darlington, Co. Durham where we used to live. Continuing on the route keeps climbing gently through the bush. Keep an eye out for local fauna including Western Grey Kangaroos and various WA birds. Passing through Glen Forrest and Mahogany Creek (there never were any Mahogany) the route is well signposted here with very clear signs at each road junction. This is the hardest part of the route but still only a gentle gradient despite being described as ‘hard yakka’ by some. Mundaring lies about 250m above sea level so the climb from Midland (elevation 20m) is gentle but steady.

On arriving at Mundaring the trail widens out to run through a small park. This is the starting point of the purpose built Munda Biddi mountain bike trail which runs down to Collie with further extensions planned. The Bibbulmun track, a long distance walking trail that runs all the way to Albany also starts from here and there are sign boards to inspire you. Finally, the 16km long Mundaring mountain bike loop starts from here as well. Mundaring itself is a pleasant town on the Great Eastern highway. The Mundaring Hotel does surprisingly good food and there are fast food places on the main road. There are several tea shops if you are just after a snack.

The next section between Mundaring and Mt Helena is a relatively flat section through the bush with the route periodically running through small cuttings. There a couple of places to get drinks along this section where the route crosses roads. At Sawyers Valley the route reaches its highest point, it’s all downhill from here.

At Mt Helena the route comes to a T junction. This is the spot where the original railway joins the diverted route built in 1895 to avoid the climb to Mundaring. The route makes a left turn back towards Perth, although the railway trail continues on up to HOLD. This option means retracing your steps back to Mt Helena however. The next section is straight, fast and because the trees are set back from the trail there is very little shade. As the route is downhill a good speed can be maintained which soon brings you to the entrance to John Forrest National Park.

John Forrest was an Australian explorer turned politician who became the first Premier of WA. The park named after him is a popular spot with Perthites due to its pleasant forests and waterfalls in the winter. The route passes through the former Hovea station and soon after arrives at Hovea falls. The falls are not vertical, the river bed at this point consisting of large expanses of rock dotted with patches of vegetation. During the summer this rock is dry and reminded me of mountain bike slick rock meccas such as Moab, Utah. I am obviously not the first to think this as a CALM (Conservation & Land Management) sign expressly forbids riding over the rocks. Spoilsports. Still, the view is great.

Continuing on, the route passes over a couple of slightly elderly wooden bridges before descending to the water gardens. Built as a make-work program during the depression years of the Thirties these centre around a pool and some terraces. Just up the hill, away from the trail is the park centre and tea shop. A kilometre or so down the trail keep an eye out on the left for the old railway tunnel. The 340m long tunnel was completed in 1895 and was once the route of the only rail link between Perth and the Eastern States. You can ride through the tunnel but unless you have a good light it is best to walk due to the uneven surface. At the end of the tunnel the valley opens out revealing a spectacular view down to Perth and the Indian Ocean. From this point the trail runs back down to Midland through the old Swan View station. There is a short road section of 500m or so before you return to the start point at Midland.

So there it is, 50km off road near Perth. None of the route is technically challenging from a mountain biking perspective, better to think of it is a great day ride with some interesting places and plenty of cake stops thrown in.

Posted: 11/05/06