Avon Valley

This gorgeous little 3 day tour was lifted from the surprisingly good lonely planet guide to Cycling Australia, which was in the most part accurate. Thanks also to John for lending me his super Dawes Super Galaxy - somewhat plusher than my clunking old Cannondale.

The route started and ended at Midland; 25 minutes from Perth city centre on the train. The fare is only AUS$3.20 (~£1.30) each way and bikes travel for free.

Day 1 - Midland to Toodyay (99.1 km)

Wild spring flowers in the Chittering Valley

Toodyay high street - well only street

After a delayed start to wrestle with the Australian banking system I hopped on the now familiar train to Midland, the start of this ride.

The first 26 km along the Great Northern Highway was busy but flat. After some lunch at Bullsbrook I turned onto quieter, hillier roads for the rest of the day. In particular the Chittering valley was a delight. The roads were deserted and the bush decorated with spring flowers. Brightly coloured parrots and galahs squawked and flew between the tree tops overhead.

All too soon I arrived at Toodyay. I stumbled upon the campsite on my way into town attractively set on the bank of the Avon. However, lack of practise, rock hard ground and a furious attack by mosquitoes meant the tent was pitched as poorly as it has ever been.

As soon as the tent was up I strolled into town along the river bank path to buy some insect repellent and something to eat. I wimped out of a counter meal at the local Toodyay Tavern, instead opting for a fancy fish burger at a bistro. I suspect I made the right choice as the food was top notch and the waitress was a honey.

It got dark before 7pm so an early night with my book.

Day 2 - Toodyay to York (74.8 km)

The Avon River

John's Dawes resting by the road

Pretty chilly in the night and I awoke to a misty campsite. By the time I got my lazy ass moving the sun had burnt off through. I had a rather average fry at the American Diner come Coca-cola museum before hitting the road.

The scenery was not quite as stunning as yesterday but pleasant enough. Whilst eating my lunch in the park at Northam I got chatting to a nice English chap travelling about with a Bike Friday (folding touring bike). I suspect out paths will cross again either down south next week or in New Zealand.

In the afternoon I span the easy 40 km along flat, straight, quiet roads to York. Like yesterday I stumbled on the campsite on the way into town - if only it was always this easy.

After pitching my tent much more successfully, with the aid of a big rock and less mozzies, I headed into town for afternoon tea and an explore. Like Toodyay, York has an olde worlde feel with many Victorian buildings and numerous tea shops and sweet shops. I suspect much of this has been preserved/cultivated for the tourist market and the functional Northam, with its supermarket, agricultural machinery stores and fast food outlets, is more typical of a rural Australian service town.

Picked up some steak for the barbie for the authentic Aussie camping experience though.

Day 3 - York to Midland (85.3 km)

Road train 1 - Skink 0

My plans for an early start were scuppered by a heavy overnight dew and the friendly Grey Nomads (retired Aussie couples who tour the continent in enormous caravans) who all wanted a chat. They were under the impression that I was cycling round Australia. I was quick to correct them.

A cheeky 7km hill to warm me up out of York led to some pleasant, rolling, wooded countryside. The flora and fauna was not the only treat today; the road kill was pretty spectacular as well. The country roads of WA are paved with a variety of birds, lizards, snakes and kangaroos. The roos in particular make a very big, long streak of strawberry jam as I discovered when an overtaking ute sprayed my shins with Skippy's guts.

After the Lakes Roadhouse I was on the Great Eastern Highway. Despite this being a dual carriageway the traffic was light and there was a pretty good shoulder for me to cycle on.

At Mundaring I got a pie and donut got lunch and finally found a pair of thongs for less than 10 bucks ($6.95 actually). The final 16km into Midland was predominantly downhill including one 5km section where I didn't drop below 55km/hr, overtaking several trucks in the process.

It was a shame about the busier roads today as this tarnished what was otherwise a superb little trip.

Posted: 28/09/06