The Long Way Home - Germany

Day 25 - Simonsberg - Distance: 81.0 km

Some rough tracks soon saw me arriving at the German border. Here the Kobbermollestien path crosses into Germany. My guide book said that said the border is only open on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons but there was no barrier, machine gun posts or search lights so I wheeled my bike across the small bridge into Germany.

Shortly after I had my first puncture of the trip; a pinch flat trying to cycle too fast on a rough track. With this mended I rode into Flensburg to get maps, Euros and do email. After scouring all the bookshops in town I came away with an eclectic collection of road and cycle maps which I think cover my route to Holland, albeit at various different scales.

No luck with my knackered cash card in the banks, so it was another costly credit card transaction. I did find a cheap internet café though. A misunderstanding in the bakers resulted in me eating a raw mince sandwich for lunch and then I got fairly lost leaving town, as is my wont.

By now it was well over 30 degrees but the cycling was easy on wide, flat quiet roads. I stopped a bit earlier than usual as the next campsite wasn’t for another 40 km – far too far in the heat. The woman at the campsite was so disgusted at my shambolic appearance that she pointed me towards a patch of waste ground just outside the actual campsite adorned with a skip, lots of insects and a distinct wiff of pee. In disgust I went for a swim in the muddy sea to cool down.

The Denmark-Germany border crossing at Padborg

Camping by the skip at Simonsberg, Germany

Day 26 – Krautsand – Distance: 131.7 km

A very heavy dew overnight so despite a late-ish start I still packed up a damp tent. Flat as a pancake all day today. Northern Germany makes Denmark look like the Himalayas. Scenery wasn’t up to much either; fields and wind farms mainly. A touch of tailwind made cycling fun and took the edge of the searing heat.

More confusion at lunchtime. I thought I’d ordered a crab sandwich but it turned out to be shrimp. Tasty none the less.

Yet more swing bridges were against me although this was a good opportunity to have a rest. The short chain ferry from Kudense was manned by a very friendly, insane and possibly drunk man.

After the ferry across the Elbe, by passing Hamburg, I arrived at the poorly named Krautsand (there’s no sand) sometime after 6. Germany is much cheaper as every supermarket is a Lidl or similar.

The ferry by Hamburg

Day 27 – Wilhelmshaven – Distance: 134.5 km

Mornings are really becoming an issue. I am up early and want to get away before it gets too hot but the last few nights there has been a heavy dew and the tent is soaked.

I arrived at Osten just in time to take the transporter bridge over the river. After which I somehow failed to find anywhere to get any lunch until I was in the rather grim Bremerhaven. The town was so unappealing that I got a cold schnitzel sandwich on the short ferry crossing to Nordenham.

By now it was stifling hot. I continued at a speed fast enough to create a bit of a breeze but sufficiently slow not to exert any effort, taking lots of rests in any shade that I could find.

My run of luck with ferries ended at Eckwardenhorne. I had to wait over an hour for the boat to Wilhelmshaven arriving well after 6. Hot, tired and hungry I made a pathetic attempt to find the youth hostel and headed for the campsite to the North of the town.

The campsite turned out to be further than anticipated (about 12 km) and not to be a campsite at all, but a field that you could camp in with no toilets or running water. I got a bratwurst and chips for dinner from a roadside van and then spent the evening rationing my last half water bottle of warm water.

The transporter bridge at Osten

Day 28 – Ringum – Distance: 80.7 km

After the heat and traumas of yesterday I vowed to have an easier day today. 2 km out of the campsite I stumbled into a busy shopping centre where I bought breakfast, water and lip salve – my only concession to the heat. My lips have fallen apart though making eating, drinking and brushing my teeth painful.

I followed the main road all the way to Leer as there was no other obvious route. There was a cycle path alongside the road all the way. The old town in Leer was pleasant enough but instead of hanging about until the youth hostel opened I decided to cross the river and stay at the rather average campsite. Regretted this instantly when I discovered the price. Things didn’t get better when I was short changed for an ice cream, the showers were about a mile from my pitch and ate my money and the neighbouring family communicated solely in bellows. The heat has taken my appetite so I ate the leftovers from lunch for my dinner.

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