Tall Trees and High Seas

A one week tour in the south west of Australia starting in Albany and ending in Dunsborough. I used the excellent TransWA buses to get down there from Perth. You must book bike on in advance for a fee of $10.

Day 1 Albany (lots of ks by bus)

The view out to sea from Mount Melville

The 6 hour bus journey to from Perth to Albany wasn’t as bad as I’d feared. The comfortable, air conditioned journey was only marred by the screening of Big Momma’s House 2. The film ended with the terrifying promise of a further sequel.

On arrival I checked into the excellent, friendly YHA and, on the advice of the proprietor, went for a stroll up Mount Melville look out tower which commanded fine views of Albany, the Stirling Range and Mount Clarence. Then I walked across town and climbed Mount Clarence as well which itself had fine vistas of the Flinders Peninsula and the islands in King George Sound. On the way down I got lost.

Day 2 Denmark (119.7km)

High seas along the Flinders Penninsula

Somehow I managed to turn a 50km ride into a 120km day with a series of side trips and getting lost a lot.

Battling the wind, some uninspiring scenery and my normal early morning sloth, I made my way along the Flinders Peninsula. It was worth it when I got to some great coastline and the impressive Gap and Natuaral Arch, features carved into the granite cliffs by the storm blown directly from the South Pole.

Back on the quiet, flat Old Denmark Road I made good progress. Shortly after joining the South Coast Highway I decided to take the Nornalup-Denmark Heritage Rail Trail for the final 9km of my journey. At first it was a bit rough (sorry John) and overgrown but I did see a fox (or maybe the elusive Nannup Tiger?) and lots of insects; all keen to bite me. Despite its name, the rail track bypassed Denmark not crossing tarmac again until I was 4km on the wrong side of town and slightly lost.

I found Denmark eventually which is small and pretty enough. I can recommend the award winning pie shop. Hostel again tonight. The weather is a bit cool and it gets dark so early (1830) it kind of ruins the evenings especially with the ace discovery that I have left my head torch in Albany.

At dusk I shot down to Ocean Beach to try and catch sunset. It was obscured by clouds at the last minute. Cycling back in the gloom I saw loads of kangaroos.

Everyone in the hostel were super friendly and I ended up getting drunk with a German and a Chinese man. In a 2 pub, 1 horse town we saw a hen party, a live band and far too much vodka.

Day 3 Walpole (75.3km)

The Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk

Felt predictably crap today and it was only when I found a pie shop at Bow Bridge that I perked up. From here I left the main highway and climbed for 13km to the Valley of the Giants and the Treetop walk. This was interesting and only slightly ruined by bus loads of backpackers and a joker playing the bagpipes.

YHA again in Walpole full of blue rinses and septics. Too tired to field their questions.

Day 4 Pemberton (131.3km)

The very tall, majestic karri trees

Long, hilly day mainly cycling. I was starting to flag before Shannon when I met a couple running the support wagon for a 1200km, 90 hour audax event. I was rather embarrassed by my pathetic distances but scrounged some much needed water from them.

Suitably inspired I enjoyed the rest of the day in fine weather through the majestic, tall karri forest.

I had been warned about the grim YHA in Pemberton so made my way to the pleasant campsite by the river. I bought the worlds worst torch for $4. I spent an enjoyable evening bantering about cricket with my neighbour and his 2 great kids.

Day 5 Alexandra Bridge (108.4km)

An easy 100 was the plan for today. The guy in the tourist info said it was all flat. It is amazing how non-cyclists don’t notice the hills in a car. I also seemed to be only climbing with no descents as a reward.

After joining the Stewart Highway the road did flatten out. However this, and the end of the forest, just exposed me to a strong headwind. Some gusts were so strong I was stopped in my tracks.

Shortly before my destination I was pleasantly surprised to find that 1 of the 2 buildings at Nillup is a general store so I stocked up on cold drinks, chocolate and bog roll.

5 more km took me to a bush camp at Alexandra Bridge. It would be an idyllic spot but for the people with the generator and those blaring out dreary REM tracks. Surely bringing electricity, lights, a TV and your unimaginative CD collection away camping with you rather defeats the point?

I picked up some free range eggs from a nearby farm and added an authentic salmonella twist to my packet carbonara. It was delicious. I need to find a way of carrying fresh eggs on my bike.

Day 6 Margaret River (35km)

At about 0430 it started raining and was still bucketing it down when I got bored and finally left my tent at 10 and packed up my soggy belongings. An hour later the clouds broke up but yesterday’s headwind returned with a vengeance.

I got to Margaret River by lunchtime and checked into the very grotty backpackers. I spent the afternoon avoiding the chuggers (charity muggers) and being generally unimpressed with MR; too touristy, overpriced and no pie shop.

The other travellers at the hostel were lying about in their unwashed clothes watching B movies and surf DVDs so I went out for a very nice seafood pizza.

Day 7 Dunsborough (50.6km)

Ngilgi Cave

Another blustery, showery day so indoor activities where possible. They don’t get more indoors than the 37m deep Ngilgi Cave filled with impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

8 more km along the road and I was in Dunsbourgh, home of an excellent pie shop (try the peppered steak) and the bus back to Perth.

Posted: 15/10/06